Driving in India - Indian Driving Schools Articles

State Border Crossings:

I crossed the following state borders: Delhi - Haryana - Himachal Pradesh - Haryana - Delhi - Rajasthan - Gujarat - Maharashtra - Goa -Karnataka - Tamil Nadu - Kerala - Tamil Nadu - Kerala - Karnataka - Goa. The only ones at which I encountered any checks were by the Goan Police at the two border crossings between Goa and Karnataka. Going east on the NH 43? from Goa to Hampi they checked passport details. I think they were on the lookout for Visa overstayers. Heading north on the NH 17 from Karnataka into Goa, they checked all my papers, seemingly interested in stolen bikes. At both of these crossings they seemed to be specifically targeting foreigners. At none of the other state crossings was I subject to hold up or any formalities whatsoever.

Daily Travel Distances:

Even at my age (58), I did not find motorcycling in India on an Enfield particularly physically tiring. I found the ride quite comfortable. But mentally, it is extremely exhausting. You must maintain a very high level of concentration throughout. Potential hazards come at you continually. Speeds on Indian roads are not particularly great, even on the dual carriageways of the National Highways, but even given that, most vehicles with the capably travel much too fast for the road conditions. After running in my bike my average speed, except when overtaking, was only between 65 and 70 kph. Remember the faster you go the less time you have to deal with the multitude and frequent hazards you will constantly encounter, and the more mentally exhausting it will be. My advice is that you set a maximum daily travel distance of not more than 250 kms. Having said that, I must confess to not having adhered to it. I did some 300, 350 and even a couple of 400 km trips, but I certainly don't recommend it. Set off early at dusk, especially when leaving a city, and have a good shit beforehand.

Night Driving:

My advice is simply do not do it. Make sure you find a hotel/guesthouse well before sunset. I encountered no real or potential violent situations whilst traveling during daylight but at night in some places there are potential risks of being stopped on the road by robbers. They've been known to place rocks in the road or dig a trench across the road to stop you.

Where not to Go:

The northern state of Bihar, one of the poorest states in India, is reputedly a lawless and corrupt place. It is a state I would avoid, certainly if you are traveling alone. Taking a bike outside India into Nepal (which might involve crossing Bihar) is also inadvisable. Border complications have been known when leaving with your bike to return to India. I met a Belgian guy who had to pay $200 to the Nepalese border authorities to get his Indian registered bike back into India because he did not have a bill of sale to prove that the bike was his.

Bicycles:

The traffic rules seem not to apply to bicycles at all. When all other traffic is stopped at traffic lights for instance, they proceed through with impunity. They never carry lights and by and large seem to operate as though they are pedestrians. It is best to treat them as such.

Pedestrians:

India is very densely populated and life is lived outside on the streets. Even in the rural areas it is quite rare to have no other human being within your field of vision. Pedestrians are a major users of the road network as pavements (sidewalks) are scarce. You have to be constantly on the lookout for pedestrians in and at the side of the road who may decide suddenly to wander out into the road. If in doubt, or if you are about to overtake a pedestrian/bicycle heading in the same direction as you, sound your horn beforehand.

Animals:

Animals populate the roads and streets of India just like people. There are perhaps not so many of them but they have, of course, no road sense. You will encounter cattle, buffalos, dogs, pigs, goats, monkeys and donkies. They are generally accustomed to but unafraid of the traffic as, by definition, the live ones have had no experience of being hit by a vehicle. If a cow is in the road ahead of you, whether moving or stationary, always steer towards its rear as you can never accurately judge where it will be when you reach it. It may stop or start to move unexpectedly. If a cow has just completed a crossing, beware of any others on the other side which may decide to follow it. You will of course also encounter animals being herded along and across the roads as well. Dogs are probably the greatest danger and you will see many carcasses on the road. (no one bothers to move them - they are left to the scavenging birds). The dogs move quickly and may suddenly decide to run into the road at the sight of another dog. It can be very difficult or impossible to avoid hitting a dog in these circumstances.

Traffic Police:

Traffic Police are one of the hazards in India. They are a separate arm from the normal police and are distinguishable in most states by their bluish uniforms. The normal police usually wear khaki. The traffic police are more numerous than in the west as, in the cities, they still control traffic flows at junctions, particularly at peak times. The trouble with them is that corruption is quite the norm, as it is with most officialdom in India. As a westerner, you will be regarded as a lucrative source of supplementary income if they get the slightest opportunity to accuse you of an offence. They will take advantage of your unfamiliarity and demand that you either pay an on the spot fine, which they will pocket, or possibly 'accompany them to the station'. Being an unofficial fine, you have some scope for negotiation if you call their bluff and say that it is too much and indicate that you might opt for the latter. But in terms of western money values, the amount involved is not usually worth the probable hassle and delay of pursuing the matter too far. Don't carry too much cash in you wallet, as if you open it to pay up you and look in it disconsolately, they might reduce their demand. It worked for me. A cop jumped out suddenly and put his hand up at a junction on the NH 1 passing through Karnal in Haryana. I had to slam everything on to stop and he demanded 500 Rs but reduced it to 300Rs when he he saw the contents of my wallet. Be particularly careful and proceed slowly when approaching junctions on a main road when passing through towns and villages. The police are often not in the middle of the road but at the side. Look out also for the police boxes at such junctions but don't assume that there isn't a cop around if the box is unoccupied. O the NH 17 In Goa they also have highway patrol vehicles.

Fuel:

Filling stations are available throughout India but if you run out of fuel, and cannot get to one, the local village shops may actually sell petrol in litre bottles. The cost of petrol varies from state to state, dependant upon the level of fuel tax levied, but is roughly about half the cost of in the UK (between 29 & 35 Rs per litre). Petrol seems to be cheaper in the north and in Goa and cheapest of all in the Union Territory heavens of Pondicherry (Including Mahe in Kerala) and Diu and Daman (southern Gujarat).

Bike Security:

is not a major problem if you use your common sense. With a new bike in particular, the risk of having parts removed is perhaps as great if not greater than having the complete bike stolen. I didn't bother, but you can buy a hefty chain and padlock cheaply enough in India. The only incident Susi Aichbauer experienced was theft of fuel by disconnecting the fuel line. I had a lock fitted as an extra to the in tank outlet, not because I was concerned about the value of any fuel stolen, but in order to avoid the hassle of being stuck with an empty tank. By and large, you will be OK parked almost anywhere in the daytime but try to choose a hotel/guesthouse with some sort of integral forecourt. Some might have all night security guards. Otherwise, try to avoid parking in isolated dark places overnight and vary your parking place each night so that the bike does not become known to be unattended at the same place every night. Avoid parking under trees where bird shit and sticky secretions from buds and leaves can be problematic.

Burns From Exhaust Systems:

Beware, many Royal Enfield riders, including myself, bear the scars of a nasty leg burn from contact with the silencer. In my case, it happened whilst I was dismounting whilst riding in shorts and kept me off the road for about 8 days. The original silencer fitted to new a Enfield (See picture opposite) is more prone to inadvertent contact as it is longer and extends up to the riders right ankle zone. Most Enfields, and all of the older models, have a much shorter silencer which supposedly gives for more smooth running and the distinct Royal Enfield exhaust sound. Many buyers of new bikes discard the original silencer (which I presume the manufacturers are obliged to fit to satisfy Indian noise and emission standards) and fit the sexier shorter silencer. I didn't bother on the basis of only intending to keep the bike for 3 months. I think other bikes are not immune from the problem. Susi Aichbauer suffered a burn on her Hero Honda CBZ.

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Source: http://inindia.4t.com/Driving.htm